SINGAPORE – Almost every kebaya you see on the hit local television drama Emerald Hill – The Little Nyonya Story was painstakingly embroidered by Mr Raymond Wong. The veteran kebaya-maker was tasked to make more than 40 pieces of the traditional garment for the female cast members – and he had only 1½ months to work on them, with the help of his team of four.The spin-off of the popular Mediacorp series The Little Nyonya (2008 to 2009) follows the ups and downs of a wealthy Chinese Peranakan family in 1950s to 1970s Singapore. All the actresses portraying Peranakan characters don the sarong kebaya – a two-piece ensemble that includes a batik sarong or skirt, and a long-sleeved tunic that is the kebaya.The 30-episode period drama is airing on Channel 8 and streaming on mewatch and Netflix. Led by a trio of new “little Nyonyas” played by Singapore actresses Chantalle Ng, Tasha Low and Ferlyn Wong, Emerald Hill is one of the most-watched series in Singapore on Netflix. It also features established stars such as Zoe Tay, Jeanette Aw, Chen Liping, Jesseca Liu, Romeo Tan, Dawn Yeoh and Elvin Ng. Since its March 10 premiere on Netflix, Mr Wong, 45, has received numerous requests from Low’s fans, asking if the yellow kebaya with blue stripes the actress wore in the show is for sale.Actress Tasha Low (right) in a yellow kebaya with blue stripes made by Mr Raymond Wong for Emerald Hill – The Little Nyonya Story. PHOTO: MEDIACORP“Alas, that particular kebaya set has been donated to the Peranakan Museum,” says Mr Wong, who runs Rumah Kim Choo, a shop in East Coast Road dedicated to showcasing Peranakan culture. Peranakan is a cultural identity that refers to a range of mixed heritage communities in South-east Asia, such as Arab Peranakans, Chinese Peranakans, Indian Peranakans (or Chetti Melakans) and Jawi Peranakans.In the Chinese Peranakan community, a Nonya refers to a Peranakan woman, while a Peranakan man is called a Baba. Three other kebaya ensembles – worn by actresses Ng, Wong and Aw in the reboot series – are on display in the Performing Identity showcase at the Peranakan Museum’s Fashion gallery, a permanent section dedicated to the role of costume in Peranakan theatre and television.Also on exhibit are intricately beaded shoes called kasut manek that are unique to Peranakan culture, and were worn by the actresses.Sarong kebayas worn by Emerald Hill – The Little Nyonya Story actresses (from left) Chantalle Ng, Tasha Low, Ferlyn Wong and Jeanette Aw on display at the Peranakan Museum.PHOTO: PERANAKAN MUSEUMShared cultural heritageThe kebaya, which comes in various styles, is a symbol of South-east Asia’s shared heritage. It is worn by women in Brunei, Cambodia, Indonesia, Malaysia, Myanmar, the Philippines, Singapore and southern Thailand.On Dec 4, the kebaya was inscribed on the Unesco Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity list. The multinational nomination involving Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore and Thailand was notable, as it recognises the significance of the kebaya as a symbol of shared heritage and pride for communities of South-east Asia. This includes the Peranakans, who design, make, don and promote it. The traditional kebaya is typically made from lightweight, translucent fabrics such as cotton or voile, and is fastened by a set of three brooches called kerosang. Modern kebayas are usually made using opaque fabric, eliminating the need to wear a camisole underneath, and buttons and zippers are used instead of the kerosang. Perhaps the most famous update of the sarong kebaya is the iconic one worn by Singapore Airlines flight attendants, although kebaya-inspired jackets are also a popular style.What stands out in a kebaya is its colourful and delicate embroidery – and Mr Wong used the embellishment to reflect each character’s personality. The recipient of the National Heritage Board’s Stewards of Intangible Cultural Heritage Award picked up kebaya embroidery in 2005 from a retired embroiderer. Determined to master the craft, he bought vintage kebayas and studied the needlecraft.Creating from scratchAs a Peranakan Chinese, Mr Wong, who has been making kebayas for more than 20 years, feels the need to preserve the culture. His wealth of knowledge about the garment was why he was commissioned to create the wardrobe for Emerald Hill.The kebayas had to be created from scratch. Although Mr Wong has several vintage pieces in his private collection, there were not enough to dress the cast.Together with Ms Tee Yu Yan, a senior image stylist for Emerald Hill, they went around Singapore hunting for vintage-looking fabric to make the outfits. Emerald Hill’s senior image stylist Tee Yu Yan worked with Mr Raymond Wong to prepare outfits for characters on the show.ST PHOTO: TARYN NG Although Ms Tee, 35, had about four months of pre-production time to research the Peranakan Chinese look of that era, the actual window of time for making the costumes was “very tight”. “I knew about the drama in September 2023, but the casting was embargoed until January 2024,” says the image stylist of 13 years.“We had only 1½ to two months to get the clothes ready before filming started,” she adds.Mr Wong was briefed on the drama’s synopsis, the character arcs and a curated mood board that outlined the colour palette for each character. While he strove for historical accuracy, he also added his own spin to the embroidery.“At that time, women liked to use embroidery to tell stories, so I added some flourishes to the various kebayas,” he says. For instance, he chose the rabbit as a theme for Ng’s kebayas, as the actress, who plays antagonist Anna, “looks sweet and mild, like a rabbit. But evil lurks behind that innocent face”.In Western literature such as The Tortoise And The Hare from Aesop’s Fables, the rabbit symbolises arrogance and pride, Mr Wong adds.He had planned to create three statement pieces for Anna, but ran out of time. “I designed a Peter Rabbit embroidery for Chantalle. (English writer-illustrator Beatrix Potter’s) Peter may be seen as a hero, but to the farmer, he is a menace,” Mr Wong says, adding that the imagery fits Anna’s “two-faced personality”.The production process felt rushed, and Mr Wong says he “spent too many sleepless nights” making the kebayas. “But it was a fruitful experience. I really hope I can show vintage-inspired kebayas to everyone and that viewers can appreciate the symbolisms behind the embroidery,” he adds. Beyond Racial Harmony DayBoth Mr Wong and Ms Tee feel the kebaya should be more widely worn and not just on special occasions or for school celebrations like Racial Harmony Day.While there are modern takes on the traditional garment, such as those by home-grown fashion brands Ans.Ein, Studio Gypsied and Faire Belle, Ms Tee prefers vintage-inspired kebayas. “I’ve received quite a few comments that the vintage kebayas on the show are striking because of the intricate embroidery and lacework,” she says, adding that she has referred inquiries to Mr Wong. In the first episode of Emerald Hill, in which Low plays a modern-day student tracing her Peranakan roots, Ms Tee showcased how to wear the kebaya in everyday life. She styled the actress with a vintage piece over a white camisole, completing the updated look with jeans and boots. Ms Tee adds that a vintage-style kebaya works well as a jacket in Singapore’s hot climate, as the material is usually thin. Mr Alvin Yapp, owner and founder of The Intan, an award-winning Peranakan home museum in Joo Chiat, says: “Increased exposure, cultural appreciation and potential celebrity influence can make the kebaya trendy, encouraging people to wear it more often.”Wearing it is not cultural appropriationMr Wong says the kebaya is a national garment, much like how the Japanese have the kimono and the Koreans their hanbok.“The beauty of traditional garments is that they fit all shapes and sizes,” he adds. The silhouette is flattering, and the bright colours and detailed embroidery turn attention away from the wearer’s figure, he says. The kebaya is a versatile outfit, Mr Wong adds, and there is no cultural appropriation when worn by other ethnic communities. “The more people wear it, the better,” he says, echoing Ms Tee’s thoughts.Mr Yapp, 55, notes that a reason the kebaya is not widely worn, compared with the cheongsam, is its “dressy” image.“The kebaya is not just a fashion piece, it is a cultural symbol. Non-Peranakans may worry about cultural appropriation when wearing it,” he says. Mr Alvin Yapp, owner and founder of award-winning home museum The Intan, says wearing the kebaya is a meaningful way for other races to connect with the Peranakan culture.PHOTO: COURTESY OF ALVIN YAPPHowever, if worn with the intention to celebrate the kebaya’s rich heritage, it is a meaningful way for other races to connect with the Peranakan culture, Mr Yapp adds.“On the practical side, kebayas can be expensive, especially if they are vintage or feature intricate embroidery, so maintaining them requires care,” he says.Mr Wong’s vintage-style kebayas are priced from $158 to $500, depending on the type of cotton and amount of embroidery used. With the surge of requests for “Emerald Hill” kebayas, he plans to make a ready-to-wear capsule collection.Madam Ratianah Tahir, founder-designer of Kebaya By Ratianah, says: “The kebaya is a product of multicultural influences, contributed and practised by various groups all across South-east Asia.”The 53-year-old, who has been making kebayas since 2006, adds that the producers of Emerald Hill have “made a great effort to ensure that Peranakan culture is respected in their interpretations”. Madam Ratianah Tahir (left), founder-designer of Kebaya by Ratianah, has been making kebayas since 2006.PHOTO: COURTESY OF RATIANAH TAHIRShe adds: “If done right and respectfully, instead of appropriation, it’ll lead to cultural appreciation.”Something for everyoneMadam Ratianah is continually trying to make the kebaya timeless and elegant, yet simple and relevant to the younger generation.“In my shop, you’ll meet many customers from different backgrounds all year round, united in the shared love of kebayas,” she says.Her shop in Bussorah Street offers ready-to-wear pieces or custom wear, with prices ranging from $55 to $289. Home-grown fashion blogshop Faire Belle (fairebelle.com) started retailing Nonya kebaya – both traditional and modern styles – in 2021. It was founded in 2011 selling womenswear and menswear.Its director Grayson Kang, whose maternal grandmother is Peranakan, says his roots have nothing to do with the decision to carry the kebayas, which are designed in-house and manufactured overseas. “Our interest stems from the wish to provide good-quality kebayas at affordable prices,” adds the 47-year-old. Faire Belle’s traditional kebaya is priced at $69.90 and the batik skirt at $45.90. Its modern kebaya-style dress is $65.90.“More Singaporeans and foreigners can then get the chance to don the kebaya without burning a hole in their pocket,” he says.Mr Yapp adds: “As Emerald Hill brings Peranakan culture into the spotlight, just like The Little Nyonya did in 2008, local and foreign viewers may be drawn to the kebaya, seeing it as a cultural symbol and a stylish garment.”Emerald Hill got it rightMr Wong and Ms Tee’s painstaking efforts to recreate the kebaya of the bygone era in Emerald Hill have not gone unnoticed.Says Madam Ratianah: “Emerald Hill has done an amazing job at showcasing the many elements of the kebaya culture, enhanced by the beauty of Peranakan architecture, cuisine and more.”She adds: “The talented actresses, seen moving expertly while decked in full kebaya, demonstrate the versatility, adaptability and unrestricted nature of the kebaya, while showing how the attire retains its figure-accentuating elements.”Many viewers, she says, will appreciate the efforts of the production crew and stylists. “The visual exposure to the many types of kebayas in the show is a good starting point to educate the masses,” she adds.Says Mr Yapp: “Emerald Hill has great potential to raise awareness of Peranakan culture, especially with its focus on traditions, fashion and heritage.”The show, he adds, could spark curiosity among local and foreign viewers, encouraging them to learn more about the Peranakan community and its rich history, which includes the kebaya, food, culture and customs.For Low, who plays lead protagonist Xinniang, to be part of the production brought back “many childhood memories, especially the tok panjang (Peranakan feast on a long table) scenes”.A Peranakan on her paternal side, the 31-year-old says her extended family keeps the culture alive through food. Apart from wearing her grandmother’s kebaya a long time ago, the singer-actress does not own a kebaya and feels it is time she gets herself a set. “I really hope to see more people embracing and wearing the kebaya,” says Low. “It’s such a beautiful tradition, and I’d love for it to continue for future generations.”Joanne Soh is a lifestyle correspondent at The Straits Times, with a special interest in entertainment and pop culture.Join ST’s Telegram channel and get the latest breaking news delivered to you.